Acima dele, por cerca de 1 metro, a pedra é lisa, desprovida de qualquer agarra. Honnold started up Freerider at 5:32 a.m. From the foot of El Cap, the route rises along a high-angled wall, following one vertical crack to another, both just wide enough for Honnold to wedge his fingers or fists into, depending on the spot. « L'important avec l'escalade de vitesse, c'est de déterminer les points faibles pour pouvoir s'améliorer », explique Alex Honnold. “Yosemite”, diz ele, “é meu lugar favorito.”. Le 6 juin 2018, dans le parc national de Yosemite en Californie, Alex Honnold et Tommy Caldwell ont réalisé ce qui semblait être impossible : parvenir au sommet d'El Capitan en 1 heure 58 minutes et 7 secondes, en empruntant le Nose, une voie longue de 914 mètres. Suas batidas de pé contra o paredão fazem parecer que ele está hesitando nessa parte da via. Uma das seções mais difíceis da rota Freerider chama Freeblast. Also in 2010, Honnold was honored as a National Geographic Adventurer of the Year. Plusieurs films ont été réalisés sur le sujet, notamment par Peter Mortimer et Josh Lowell, les fondateurs de REEL Rock. At first, the clean-up was led by the climbers, but now a lot of other people come, too. “Just hugs all around.”, “I’ve spent a lot of time shooting on the wall, and nothing comes close to what I experienced this morning,” Lempe said that evening. Earlier that morning, Honnold’s friend Cheyne Lempe had rappelled off the top of El Cap to help Chin film Honnold’s ascent. Nous entendions leurs encouragements à plus de 600 mètres d'altitude. “When I climbed it with Alex recently, I looked down at the ground and tried to imagine myself free-soloing, and was thinking, ‘Oh, my God’…”. If you tense up, it can start a downward spiral: You’ll lean forward because you’re scared, and your feet will skid out from under you.”, eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'mensjournal_com-incontent_7','ezslot_0',122,'0','0']));“The slabs are super insecure — they’re the kind of spot where you couldn’t even allow yourself to sneeze,” says Brad Gobright, a fellow free-solo climber. eval(ez_write_tag([[468,60],'mensjournal_com-incontent_6','ezslot_6',121,'0','0']));Beyond the roof, Freerider rises again up a stretch of relatively easy cracks pocked with shallow piton scars.

Avant, plusieurs jours, au mieux, Ã©taient nécessaires à l'ascension de la paroi.

Alex Honnold deixou o mundo da escalada atordoado ao repetir a obra-prima Astroman- -Rostrum de Croft. « L'avenir nous le dira ». Ils passent alors la nuit au-dessus du sol, dans des portaledges ancrés dans la roche. Alex pesquisou várias rotas do El Capitan, finalmente optando pela Freerider, uma via de teste muito popular entre veteranos e que normalmente requer vários dias. “Alpinism is all about carrying lots of stuff and being all encumbered,” Honnold observed. It used to be that the climbers were kind of a drain on the park. Two hundred and thirty-five feet later, the wall’s angle drops a few degrees, and the crack ends. “He did a variation where instead of doing the thinnest moves, he went farther left for part of it.”, eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'mensjournal_com-incontent_11','ezslot_10',126,'0','0']));“I was belaying Alex on that section in 2012, and I felt the rope go tight,” says big-wall climber Mason Earle. Ele estava preso a uma corda. Tommy Caldwell (right) sets up a rappel on the way to Aguja Saint Exupery, one of the seven peaks of the Fitz Roy Traverse. The ledge ends in a natural corner system that soars 140 feet up the near-vertical wall on a slow, right-arching path as a ceiling of granite intercepts it. It’s just so in your face. But I go to Yosemite, and I go straight on to Passage of Freedom or something, and I see just a few people. Today, National Geographic broke the story that Alex Honnold, the best free soloist in the world, climbed El Capitan via Freerider (5.12d), without ropes. Eu aperto os olhos no telescópio, e lá está Alex, 180 metros acima do vale, subindo a Freeblast, a seção de escalada de aderência que o atormentou por quase uma década. Honnold and Caldwell completed the first ascent of this massive traverse over five days in February 2014. La plus mémorable d'entre elles fut la première ascension du Fitz Traverse après cinq jours d'effort intense pour traverser la crête du cerro Fitz Roy, en Patagonie. Mais je ne vois pas l'intérêt de le faire maintenant », confie Alex Honnold. eval(ez_write_tag([[580,400],'mensjournal_com-under_second_paragraph','ezslot_8',167,'0','0']));Last week, they put a new free climb, which they will probably call Passage to Freedom up on El Cap, rated 5.13+. Here’s a play-by-play of one of history’s greatest climbs.

C'était aussi la plus grosse, la plus célèbre et la plus intimidante ». « Depuis 2012, lorsque j'ai établi le record d'ascension avec Hans, je me disais que c'était possible de le faire en moins de 2 heures », a confié Alex Honnold. They were loaded down with cold weather gear in their packs, endured icy conditions and high winds, and had just one sleeping bag between them.

Que représente cet exploit ? Foi a realização de um sonho de dez anos.

(Jorgeson ended up having to leave before they finished the route. The climbers came in and they picked up everything. Alex não está confiante. It’s debatable about whether that’s fully climate change or whether it’s poor forest management for eons. Photograph: Jimmy Chin/National Geographic/Jimmy Chin We’re both about 30m up, me on an adjacent route. Only 300 feet beneath the finish, Honnold paused on a small ledge to chat with Lempe. There are major issues happening now.

If I were out climbing on the easier routes that people have historically free-soloed, maybe I would know. Seus movimentos, normalmente suaves, são bruscos. Past the boulder problem, the route continues up into the “Sewer,” a steep, left-facing corner that oozes water in the spring. Em 2009, durante a nossa primeira expedição juntos, ele mencionou a ideia para mim. Being there, most of the people leave, because they can’t handle the smoke. “There’s nothing to grab onto once the crack ends,” says Caldwell. A Freeblast pode ser a parte mais assustadora, mas seções mais exigentes fisicamente aguardam o escalador acima: uma fenda em chaminé pela qual ele terá de se contorcer; outra tão larga que ele quase terá de fazer uma abertura completa das pernas, pressionando a rocha com os pés e as mãos para subir centímetro a centímetro. “The thing about Enduro is that you have fatigue and fear for such a long time,” says Gobright. “No fundo, eu estava um pouco nervoso”, disse ele depois. “I recognized that I was tightening up, but honestly I was just kinda, like, ‘Whatever,’ and climbed through it. Pourquoi ? eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'mensjournal_com-incontent_7','ezslot_3',122,'0','0']));Yeah, there’s plenty left. The pair high-fived and Honnold tightened his shoes. Então, em 3 de outubro de 1913, quando escalava solo o Pico Mandlkogel, nos Alpes austríacos, ele caiu para sua morte.

L'élite des grimpeurs se fixe comme objectif de réaliser l'ascension en une journée. Le 6 juin 2018, dans le parc national de Yosemite en Californie, Alex Honnold et Tommy Caldwell ont réalisé ce qui semblait être impossible : parvenir au sommet d'El Capitan en 1 heure 58 minutes et 7 secondes, en empruntant le Nose, une voie longue de 914 mètres. I think in general, free-soloing is pretty self-regulating. It’s fun to talk about that stuff. The crack slowly widened into the “Monster Offwidth,” a 200-foot section where the fracture in the stone is gaping enough that Honnold could’ve fit one of his legs into it and one of his arms, too, up to his shoulder. From there, he would’ve been able to push himself up and secure a few of his left fingers in a crack. Finished with the “easy” sections, he climbed left across the “Bermuda Dunes,” instead of splitting to the right, which would have taken him up a left-looping path called the “Ear.”eval(ez_write_tag([[580,400],'mensjournal_com-incontent_12','ezslot_7',127,'0','0'])); “Honnold went left up the Dunes because, otherwise, he would’ve had to lower himself down a tricky section at the top of the Ear,” says Whittaker. When the government shutdown happened last year, and all of a sudden the bathrooms were closed and all of the facilities were closed, the Yosemite Climbers Association came in and started, once again, picking up all the trash and stocking the bathrooms with toilet paper, and telling the tourists where to go. Watch the trailer for Free Solo, a stunning, intimate, and vertigo-inducing film about rock climber Alex Honnold's journey to climbing the world’s most famous rock wall—El Capitan in Yosemite National Park—without a rope or safety gear. « Tout ne s'est pas déroulé à la perfection », a confié Alex Honnold. Alex Honnold (USA) devient - avec Freerider (7c+) - le premier grimpeur à compléter une voie d'El Capitan en solo intégral. Le ciel s'assombrit au-dessus d'El Capitan, dans le parc national de Yosemite. The park and the backcountry have drastically changed. Nobody else is free-soloing on El Cap right now, that’s for sure. Honnold climbed through the Sewer, until it arced left overhead. Above it, a chimney splits the face for almost the same distance until it tapers into a 150-foot crack. “Mas, definitivamente, é preciso se empolgar primeiro.” Ele faz a mímica da sequência de 11 movimentos para eu ver. Diferente dos trechos mais no alto, que possuem pelo menos pequenas ranhuras ou fendas na rocha, essa parte – uma rocha quase vertical – é vencida chapando a sola de suas sapatilhas contra a rocha lisa e mantendo o equilíbrio. It took Honnold two hours and 15 minutes to reach the top, including several minutes spent in a rare “mini nervous breakdown” along an eight-inch-wide ledge. “The Boulder Problem is the single reason nobody had even considered free-soloing Freerider,” says Caldwell.