C'est ce nouveau record qui a poussé Alex Honnold Ã  retenter l'exploit avec son partenaire Tommy Caldwell.
The route follows the seam of a flaring, left-facing corner almost straight up the wall for 280 feet, then arcs left for an 80-foot traverse to the “Round Table” ledge.


eval(ez_write_tag([[468,60],'mensjournal_com-incontent_5','ezslot_0',120,'0','0']));Nearly 20 years ago, Leo Houlding put up a route that only went halfway up the wall, and then he couldn’t figure out how to climb off of El Cap Tower, and he stopped it there. « Depuis les années 1960, des alpinistes à Yosemite comme Royal Robbins avaient pour projet de réaliser l'ascension en heures et non plus en jours », a déclaré John Long. Pé direito nesse pequeno abaulado em que você pode forçar o dedão do pé para fazer oposição à mão esquerda... Depois eu espalmo a mão sobre a parede para poder levantar o meu pé e depois alcançar um reglete invertido”. Alex almost never makes mistakes; when he does, he figures it out.”. Lorsque les deux grimpeurs s'élancent le 6 juin à la poursuite d'un 3e record, Alex Honnold était confiant et ne doutait pas qu'ils puissent établir un record en passant sous la barre des deux heures. “No fundo, eu estava um pouco nervoso”, disse ele depois. Essa foi a atitude de um alpinista austríaco chamado Paul Preuss, considerado por historiadores da escalada como o pai do free solo. Even though the route goes up an amazing part of the wall, it wasn’t, by Dawn Wall standards, cutting-edge. Os críticos o consideram um espetáculo imprudente, que dá má reputação ao esporte, levando em conta a longa lista dos que morreram ao praticá-lo. Pour les grimpeurs, le défi consiste à grimper le big wall granitique. Are we just here to try and pat ourselves on the back, and make ourselves feel better about what we’re doing?” I didn’t really know.eval(ez_write_tag([[336,280],'mensjournal_com-incontent_9','ezslot_12',124,'0','0'])); But as I begin to understand the inner workings of D.C., and how politics work, I realize that this kind of stuff is really important. Now, Alex Honnold has done the unthinkable; on June 3, he completed the first-ever free solo of El Capitan, climbing the wall via Freerider (VI, 5.13a).

La course pour le Nose est lancée. Exclusif : Alex Honnold réalise l'ascension la plus dangereuse de l'histoire. “The transition from up to down can always feel a little insecure,” he says.

We’re all pretty busy these days, so it felt like we needed to be really efficient.

Eu mesmo já escalei essa seção por aderência e, só de pensar em fazer isso sem cordas, fico com enjoo. Two hundred and thirty-five feet later, the wall’s angle drops a few degrees, and the crack ends. Tommy Caldwell est également le premier grimpeur à avoir réussi l'ascension en escalade libre d'autres parois imposantes de Yosemite et d'autres sommets notables. À medida que as ofertas de patrocínio jorravam e os fãs aclamavam suas conquistas, Alex contemplava secretamente um objetivo bem maior.

eval(ez_write_tag([[580,400],'mensjournal_com-under_second_paragraph','ezslot_8',167,'0','0']));Last week, they put a new free climb, which they will probably call Passage to Freedom up on El Cap, rated 5.13+. Sábado de manhã, 3 de junho de 2017, sete meses depois da tentativa abortada de Alex, estou na campina perto do sopé do El Capitan. Então, em 3 de outubro de 1913, quando escalava solo o Pico Mandlkogel, nos Alpes austríacos, ele caiu para sua morte. With the hike to and from the peaks, their car-to-car time totaled 32 hours. Les alpinistes Tommy Caldwell et Alex Honnold prennent la pose au pied d'El Capitan à Yosemite, après avoir établi un nouveau record d'ascension via The Nose. There is that, but public lands, in general, are a bipartisan thing. When he practiced with Caldwell a week before Saturday’s free-solo, they took an alternate route. C'est tout simplement l'ascension la plus dangereuse de toute l'histoire de l'escalade libre. The lower elevations of Yosemite National Park have already turned into a more desert-y terrain.

When Alex Honnold chose an El Capitan route to free solo, he picked one of the easiest big wall free climbing routes on El Capitan, Free Rider (5.12d). A grama alta está coberta de orvalho.

2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. The next move is the single toughest of the climb. Fort heureusement, pas de faux pas pour Alex Honnold : « avec les performances en solo intégral, je sais - bien sûr - que je suis en danger. Honnold started up Freerider at 5:32 a.m. From the foot of El Cap, the route rises along a high-angled wall, following one vertical crack to another, both just wide enough for Honnold to wedge his fingers or fists into, depending on the spot.

“Eu já superei ele umas 11 ou 12 vezes sem cair”, responde. Não existe “talvez” quando você está a uma de altura de 60 andares sem corda.

Uma leve brisa agita seus cabelos enquanto ele usa sua lanterna de cabeça para iluminar um pedaço de granito frio onde deve apoiar o pé em seguida. In February 2016, Honnold and mountaineer Colin Haley set a new speed record on the Torre Traverse. En 2005, il était devenu la 3e personne à réaliser l'ascension en escalade libre du Nose, aux côtés de Beth Rodden. In June 2018, they teamed up to break the speed record on the Nose, then broke their own record with a mind-blowing sub-two-hour ascent. Alex Honnold didn’t wake up one morning and decide to make the first historic rope-free ascent of Yosemite’s El Capitan. According to National Geographic, “He ascended the peak in 3 hours, 56 minutes, taking the final moderate pitch at a near run.” Que représente cet exploit ? Lynn Hill, the first person with a free ascent on the nose of El Capitan in 1993. É importante apontar que a jornada de Alex até chegar à escalada solo do El Capitan não foi um truque movido a adrenalina que ele inventou por um capricho. Le ciel s'assombrit au-dessus d'El Capitan, dans le parc national de Yosemite. Alex Honnold, free soloed Freerider, a route that was previously thought impossible to even attempt and did it in under 3 hours on June 3, 2017. We talk about that like 20 percent of the time, and the rest of the time, it’s just our regular climbing banter. Nobody else is free-soloing on El Cap right now, that’s for sure. Suas batidas de pé contra o paredão fazem parecer que ele está hesitando nessa parte da via.

There is more free climbing, for sure. Nous entendions leurs encouragements à plus de 600 mètres d'altitude. « C'est comme ça.

Honnold come um lanche com sua mãe na cozinha de sua casa de infância em Sacramento, Califórnia. Photos of Free Solo Climber Alex Honnold’s Most Epic Routes.

Mais tarde, vou conversar com ele, mas já sei a razão do recuo.

But in California, everyone is like, “Whoa! E eu sei o motivo. Honnold finished the section by climbing left onto a bullet-shaped outcrop known as the “Triangle Ledge” — and discovered a would-be cameraman fast asleep. “Doubt is the biggest danger in soloing,” Honnold said in the film. And Honnold had once again prepared a short detour to navigate through a treacherous section of the down-climb. For access to exclusive gear videos, celebrity interviews, and more, subscribe on YouTube!

Eu percebo que estou com a respiração presa, e então exalo. Le premier record d'ascension du Nose date de 1975, lorsque les alpinistes Jim Bridwell, John Long et Billy Westbay, ont atteint le sommet en moins de 24 heures.

Honnold had to plant his left foot far out to the side, higher than waist-level, braced against the raised left edge of a crack.eval(ez_write_tag([[336,280],'mensjournal_com-incontent_14','ezslot_13',129,'0','0'])); “It’s almost like a karate kick,” says Caldwell.

Cette voie est la particularité la plus reconnaissable du monolithe. Mais nous avons atteint notre objectif ». “Poxa, é um baita paredão acima de você.” Então, o que vem a seguir?

Only 300 feet beneath the finish, Honnold paused on a small ledge to chat with Lempe. Pendant 10 ans, quelques-uns des meilleurs grimpeurs au monde comme Dean Potter, Sean Leary et les frères allemands Alexander et Thomas Huber, se sont succédés pour tenter de battre le record d'Hans Florine. You see all the dead trees. It’s a distinct set of movements, and I had them wired — left hand, right hand, left hand… I did what I normally do, just without a rope this time.”, According to Caldwell, Honnold climbed up into the sequence by pulling on a few tiny edges, the soles of his shoes smeared against small, sloping patches of rock, and grabbing a handhold the size of “a fourth-of-a-finger-pad.”.